Sincerity, Manners and Individuality in the New Millenium
In an era of flux, how to find personal style that everyone else can also appreciate. One of the skills to dressing well is maintaining a sense of tradition but also developing a talent to edit it with contemporary tastes.
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Lumbs Golden Bale Cloth
The virtues of Lumbs Golden Bale cloth discussed. This ambrosia of suiting fabrics is worn by Titans of industry both past and present.
read more (588 words)Mohair, the Casual Power Suit
FNB demonstrates the power of a good mohair cut.
read more (599 words)The Importance of not being earnest
Catering to the male desire to wear smart clothes both for the office and casually, FNB presents two jacket fabrics which provide the wearer with fun, style and dignity.
read more (930 words)How Checkered Hippo and I saved the Universe for Democracy
How the author made sure to commemorate one of our mightiest superheroes by permanently weaving him into the fabric of the universe. A reminder to evil that he is out there amongst the stars, watching over us.
read more (482 words)Van Buck stylish accessories
High quality male furnishings and accessories by Van Buck, a traditional English purveyor with the talent to keep their offerings current.
read more (1220 words)Striped for Action
Harrisons of Edinburgh Premier Grand Cru Cloth – Super 180s – will allow a man to be faster than a speeding bullet. More powerful than a locomotive. Able to leap tall buildings in a single bound and still look smart from the office to after hours.
read more (532 words)Dandy Ink
With tattoos gracing so many bodies, it is fitting that smart dressers are eschewing needles on their own skins and instead are adorning their second skin, their clothes, with tasteful monograms.
read more (1227 words)The Shoe Fits: Custom shoe maker Tony Gaziano discusses the past, present and future of fine mens’ shoes.
Bespoke shoe firm Gaziano and Girling’s (G&G) own Tony Gaziano waxes on about his approach to shoe style and construction. Interview and Editing by Film Noir Buff.
read more (3159 words)Ivy in London
The story of Ivy in London from previously unheard sources. The sartorial equivalent of the enemy within…
read more (1983 words)Cuff Your Enthusiasm Part 2
More off the cuff commentaries by some of England’s best cufflink manufacturers and jewelers. Whether on the High Street or off the beaten path, English cufflink culture is inexorably inter-linked.
read more (2797 words)Triumphing Over Time: Lasting Elements of Classic Style
In this article Tony Ventresca takes a look at some of the elements of classic style which have stood the test of time by remaining popular among well-dressed men for over 50 years. Everyone will have their own list of favourites, so Tony’s list is a personal one!
read more (1169 words)Icons Of Classic American Style II
Continuing his series on Icons of Classic American Style, this time Tony Ventresca looks at five American men who might best be described as ‘Overlooked Icons of Classic American Style’ – no ultra-famous leading actors or statesmen among these men, but Icons nonetheless.
read more (445 words)Victoria Richards Ties; Respect and Respectability
Evoking as they do a sense of Regency sans souci , Victoria Richards’ neckties are a controlled splash of color for the self assured dresser to adorn his well tailored outfits with.
read more (1340 words)Cuff Your Enthusiasm
English cufflink culture generally demonstrates sterling character but also demonstrates that enamel need not only be on one’s teeth.
read more (1535 words)Remembrance of Brooks Brothers Past
The Golden Age of Brooks Brothers (1960-1980). A walk down memory lane concerning traditional American clothing icon Brooks Brothers with the tailor who made the man in the gray flannel suit.
read more (1684 words)Summer Shirts
Your friendly neighborhood dandy opines on cottons from England’s Acorn Fabrics which stylishly allow a man to beat the heat.
read more (1696 words)Harvie and Hudson From Suit to Knots
A chat with Harvie and Hudson, a traditional English haberdasher with a sense of humor and a touch of whimsy. Just the right ticket both for the dapper dresser and new entrant alike.
read more (1610 words)Run away!
Often it is the details about dressing that provide the most fun. A pair of eccentric, custom cufflinks is the focus of this installment of the English dream.
read more (1435 words)Ya Boo Socks
An interesting view on an often overlooked item of clothing; the relation of socks to the rest of the City outfit.
read more (2142 words)Harrisons 150s wool, Grand Cru range
For a suit that combines quality with a contemporary look and a high level of luxury this cloth has few peers.
read more (649 words)The French Cut
Or French influences on a British Phenomenon
read more (2618 words)Dream Weavers
The story of a whimsical custom item which caught the author’s fancy along his sartorial journey.
read more (1161 words)Icons of Classic American Style
This article follows on from my previous article on the Updated American style, “The Paul Stuart Variation: Classic American Style“. This article presents a selection of famous men considered icons of American style.
read more (948 words)Domenico Spano on Men's Style
Domenico Spano discusses his views and relates some interesting stories both about male attire and where American style is headed.
read more (1419 words)Kilgour Keeps the Row, Real
Kilgour accepts the challenge of both evaluating and retaining those English traditions that matter while keeping pace with the current stylish man’s lifestyle in order to produce handsome clothes and accesories.
read more (1811 words)English Pocket Squares
A look at silk and linen pocket squares as a means to achieve a more stylish, powerful and individual look within the English mind set.
read more (3241 words)The Paul Stuart Variation: Classic American Style
This short article is intended to make a start towards revitalizing the reputation and perception of an often under-appreciated pillar of classic American menswear style: the “Updated American†suit and jacket silhouette.
read more (2474 words)Suedeheads
Unearthing the myth surrounding the short-lived British cult of the late Sixties/early Seventies that came to be in the wake of Skinhead.
read more (2696 words)Harrisons' Multi-Millionaire Cashmere suit
A preliminary review of Harrison’s Cashmere cloth made up into a suit fit for a man of quality.
read more (827 words)A Nation’s Standards - Part 2
Part One looked at ties from the wears viewpoint, now Part Two examines the English necktie from the perspective of those who design and produce them.
read more (4061 words)A Nation’s Standards-Part 1
The City of London preferences in neckties and how the styles and choices evolved into what we see the English wearing today.
read more (3933 words)Sportswear and its Merits
Frowned upon by traditionalists whereas any serious dresser will happily make use of it. Loose and sporty attire doesn’t equal sloppiness by any means, if one applies a certain classic element as a firmly rooted principle when selecting one’s outfit. Sportswear doesn’t rule out smartness at all. So don’t be a doubting Thomas and read on…..
read more (1154 words)Designs of the City
The Play’s the thing, to catch the conscience of the City worker. An interview with Doug Hawkes, wardrobe designer for English historical and contemporary theatrical and film productions.
read more (2695 words)Drake's
Drake’s handmade English silk ties with an International flavor.
read more (1925 words)London Life: WestEnd Style (Part Two).
The continuing saga of the style of man in London’s West End.
read more (2561 words)My Birthday Suit: Ordering a bespoke suit from Tokyo's prestigious Ginza Tailor - Part 2
On the morning of March 24th, I received a call from Ms. Miura informing me that I could drop by for the first fitting at my convenience. Even in its bare-bones state, this suit had a distinct presence and fit amazingly well for something that was only in rough form.
read more (2023 words)Tribal Markings in Men's Style
Beau Brummell and his legacy of exclusivity and tribalism with regards to English male attire, style and grooming.
read more (3119 words)London Life: WestEnd Style (Part One).
The variations of style and life within London are often glossed over. The true City gent is found in the WestEnd, the insouciant gentleman amateur who appears to take nothing (especially himself) that seriously. Not for him the bustling commerce of the “Square Mile”, but rather the more relaxed life of the WestEnd with it’s clubs, shops, restaurants. The rules are more relaxed here, conformity is not seen as such a virtue…
read more (2115 words)The English Zulu Cow
What do Nguni cattle, Norman Knights and the Cheshire Cat from Alice in Wonderland all have in common? They all serve to explain the importance of the Englishman’s dress shirt.
read more (4995 words)H. Lesser and Sons
H. Lesser and Sons produces a very sophisticated, old world quality and style of fabric for the man of resolve in all of us.
read more (1722 words)The Boutique as a Sartorial Temple
The very essence of Stylism should be to take a sartorial influence and give it a contemporary twist. How to achieve this is a difficult matter indeed. Within the next lines we’ll try to find some answers without actually spelling them out.
read more (894 words)A Shock of Color
In an age of personality, Salvador Dali stood out more than most. Not only was this due to his art but also due to his persona—a persona of shock, something that was like a Baroque spectre. Indeed, his sartorial leanings were less austere than awesome, and thus a small dissection is in order.
read more (1673 words)The English and their City Suit: Part 2
Continuing the examination of the suit colors and patterns the English wear to work in the City of London, and introducing some of the Savile Row styles.
read more (4627 words)My Birthday Suit: Ordering a bespoke suit from Tokyo's prestigious Ginza Tailor
Thursday, March 8th 2007, my birthday, was the day I chose to treat myself to my first ever bespoke suit. It also happened to coincide with the first day of a four day sale on spring and summer fabrics at Ginza Tailor, one of Japan’s most reputed bespoke tailoring establishments…
read more (2026 words)Spy Style
Most of our modern ideas about style come from, if not Edith Head, then certainly her later colleagues. Real life spies are much more interesting. They have real style!
read more (1684 words)Acorn Shirt Fabrics
Acorn Fabrics make a full range of cotton materials for shirts that the English find compelling. This is a review of the reasons behind this phenomenon with highlights about some of their more sought after selections.
read more (3681 words)The English and Their City Suit. Part I
An introductory look at the suit colors and patterns the English wear to work in the City of London and thoughts about the reasons they do so.
read more (3433 words)Harrisons of Edinburgh: Cloth of distinction
Cloth both for the second estate traditionalist and for the modern man of manners. An elite cloth merchant that bridges the gap between the old world and the new one.
read more (2223 words)In search of Butcher stripes and checks
A preliminary look through the eyes of English shirt mavens at the preferences the English have for one of their favorite items, their shirts.
read more (3029 words)Follow your Sartorial White Rabbit
The seminal article in a series which suggests means to develop one’s own style, sartorial and otherwise, by examining the English aesthetic.
read more (6257 words)Cavalry Commander as Dandy
This essay asks the question, why is it that so many who fearlessly faced death while leading horses or tanks into glory also took the time to make sure they were dressed to kill.
read more (2524 words)Edward Green shoes: True heart, true friend to the dandy…
This is an essay about the Edward Green shoe aesthetic for men of style. It addresses why they are appropriate both for jacket and tie dressing specifically and the western aesthetic generally. It includes a selection of photographs both from their ready-to-wear range and their made-to-order service.
read more (2640 words)The Importance of Being Hip: After Hours Casual Attire.
Some meditations on clothes to wear after hours in an urban setting.
read more (4299 words)Trafalgar Limited Edition Braces: Support your local Brace manufacturer.
Set yourself apart from the herd by wearing a rare but acceptable version of male decor in the form of silk suspenders woven in artistic colors and patterns. Each pattern made up in limited quantities of one thousand at a time.
read more (2460 words)The Tree of Style: Genres of Clothes for Men
A discussion of the nuances between coexisting styles of clothes and dressing for men as observed by the author.
read more (7333 words)Alan Flusser: Back to Basics
Alan Flusser, scion of refined tastes in men’s tailored clothes, extols on the virtues of simplicitiy as a primary building block for a man who wants to learn dress very well.
read more (1818 words)H. Herzfeld: This is not your Fathers store…well not totally.
A closer look at venerable H. Herzfeld a haberdasher of traditional clothes for men of refined taste. The store has been in NYC for over 70 years and rates some attention for its adaptability in providing updated classics.
read more (1895 words)Trad Star
We proudly present a brief biography about the life and times of one David Wilder, known for his dedicated championing of the traditional American style. He is the J Press representative extraordinaire, sometime forum contributor steedappeal, and the Natural Shouldered Man of Mystery.
read more (2360 words)Film Noir Style: The Maltese Falcon (1941)
In a preface to the Maltese Falcon Gallery we take a brief look at the film and it’s players. This is one of my all time favorites.
read more (1802 words)Maltese Falcon Gallery
While the look in the Maltese Falcon is a classic it is still dated. In this article we take a look at how the style could be updated.
read more (252 words)Ecce Dandy
What is a Dandy? Everyone has a reaction to the word “dandy†but how many have actually ruminated on the term and its meanings? It may be that the actual term is far too complex to ever fully understand.
read more (2202 words)The Art of Tie-Chi
A lighthearted pondering on the art of tying a tie, looking at what I like to think is important in these matters, and some experiences.
read more (1635 words)Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Dandy
The name Beau Brummell is familiar but few people really know anything about who he was, or his effect on history. In this biography Ian Kelly sets out to address this shortcoming, and in doing so presents us with a most entertaining and informative read.
read more (3063 words)Suggestions for the serious dresser
Admit it- You want to present yourself in a certain light. You want to be different in the way you dress but not unusual or the suspect of caring too much about clothes and not the matters at hand. A man who is together, sharp and elegant but without revealing what exactly makes that so apparent. You want to be admired and wondered at, but in a subtle way not like a crass arriviste. But, unless you understand the subtleties of dressing well, how do you affect this purpose of knowing at what point you have gone too far?
read more (3965 words)History of the Black Suit, Part 1.
The solid black suit you ask? How did it ever become the subject of controversy? Exactly how does such a neutral choice become imbued with enough emotionally charged angst to make it the DMZ of men’s style? After all, wasn’t there a time when all of serious and polite society was dressed in black from head to toe? How then did it creep out of use and then back in for men’s day wear? What were the elements that made this choice of color naff for one generation and the perfectly acceptable choice for a new one? Now read on…
read more (1834 words)Domenico Spano: Modern Day Apparel Arts Man
The style illustrations from the 1930s Apparel Arts magazine are for many who love clothes today a window into an elegant past. We gaze on the photos and wonder what it was like to live back then when seemingly everything was quality and what all men wore was already hashed out. In that elegant past, it was just a matter of taste and style that distinguished the well dressed from the very well dressed.
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